Had pictures. Accidentally erased. Oh well.
Non-boat projects: radio geek update: I’m researching the latest of a combination of HF (high frequency, or long range) and VHF (very high frequency, or local ops) radio antennas anew. Now close to home owner’s board approval for mounting on the condo building mansard roof wall. Exciting. I now possess a new sense of urgency on this project with the heart of our first hurricane season approaching with us in residence. Some bigger “ears” and a self-sufficient way to communicate out, should other means fail, would be good to see operational.
Meantime, I’ve stuffed the radio (can do both HF and VHF) back into the car, and a killer antenna on the roof – a 5/8 wave on two meter frequencies, with range out to about 50 miles, and quarter wave on six meter, the “magic band”, with a reliable range out to a hundred miles or more, with some occasional skywave magic, much farther out). Check it out:


But never fear, if you’re not already a radio geek (you know who you are!), I’m not trying to turn you into one (but this is pretty cool stuff). Fired up the rig this morning, made a call on a local 2M repeater, instant response indicating that I was putting out a booming signal. Oh yeah!
Aboard the boat yesterday, I found that the now newly finished (except for varnish) section of caprail on the port bow fits like a glove! (whew!). You may recall that I had to route out the underside to receive the top of the bulwark (the vertical section of hull under the cap rail). A perfect fit!
All eleven of the rub rail sections are now ready to go back on the boat. Today I ordered the sizeable 100+ stainless screws (1/4″ x 2″ – almost bolts!) needed for remounting. The six foot lengths stainless rub strakes and screws are on hand as well. These will be the last things to get reinstalled after the boat is painted and before returning her to the water.
Yesterday I started varnishing the new section of caprail in the garage. Not so much for final finishing, but to protect the wood until I revarnish all the brightwork on the boat later this summer or early this fall when the heat, and more importantly, the humidity abates. Also, I wanted some early experience with a new (to me) product.
I’m switching all of Sojourn’s exterior wood over to a Dutch varnish with a pant load of UV inhibitors to shield my precious wood from the intense sun and relentless ultraviolet (UV) rays down here. It’s called Epifanes, and as some of you know, has been a highly regarded yacht finish for decades.
First coat, to soak in and seal, is mixed with 50% brushing thinner. Complete yesterday. Must dry twenty-four hours between coats, and sanded with 280 grit in between, to give it a tooth to which the next coat will adhere. Second coat is thinned 25%. Third 15%. Then build four coats of straight varnish on top of that foundation. All that’s required after that is an annual refresher coat, assuming the experience of others is duplicated on our little ship. Not a simple system, but that which is purported to be the best seldom is.
Like the moral as told by Goldilocks. Soft finishes like Cetol (Sikkens) are very quick and easy, but too soft (almost no abrasion-resistance, and too little UV protection for South Florida, Bahamas and the Carribean). Two part linear polyurethanes are too hard like Bristol or AwlBrite last a long time, but a bitch to touch up or refinish. Good ole quality resin-based varnish is just right (or so I’m told). Although time consuming to build up initially, should last a good long while between refreshers (very much a practical matter), and relatively easy to strip off for refinishing (ALL finishes need to come off and start anew sooner or later).
Besides, Cetol (clear satin and gloss) has served Sojourn well for well over a decade in the Minnesota sun. Now she’s due for a change, so here goes nothin’. This will take some time, but hey! I’m retired, right? By the way, I’m still waiting impatiently to become bored, and that’s a trick for someone with attention deficit (self-diagnosed). So far, boredom in retirement appears to be a myth, at least for yours truly.
Arthur’s crew has now beautifully ground out the hundreds of freeze cracks topsides (previously referred to as varicose veins), filled them with epoxy, and now faired out with fairing compound. They have yet to do the same for the hullside rub rail extrusions. Arthur’s treating this like a completely separate project, for his own reasons.
Every square inch that won’t receive paint is now covered with protective green tape. Why green? This stuff doesn’t leave a residue after being removed when left on for some time (days to weeks). Disadvantage: it is bloody expensive.
Pop quiz: what kind of tape leaves NO residue, even left on for MONTHS? Answer: gaffer’s tape. It’s named after the lighting guys in the movies. Disadvantage: even more expensive than green tape, but is great to have on hand. Google it, you’ll see. I figure after Arthur’s finished with Sojourn, and she’ll be reintroduced to almost daily Florida afternoon summer rains again, I’ll need to gaff many dozens of holes to waterproof them until I can get all the deck hardware reinstalled. There is a LOT of it!
I’m asking Arthur for an estimate where we’re at overall financially in the project so far. I think he’s reluctant to give me the bad news. Gulp alot!
Lator, ‘gators…
Be careful leaving Gaffer’s tape on too long. I pay $40 a roll for that excellent cloth backing and nonstick goo. But after 3 months on the deck, turned it – the gelcoat – gray. Eventually faded away in the sunlight, but it did stain it.
Try it on some scrap left out in the sun for a month or so before taking chances with your pride and joy.
Have fun …
Jon …
By: Jon Dokken on July 10, 2009
at 12:04 pm